Crank set / Galvanic Gorrosion

[Sven]

Working on my buddy's Cannondale that was stored too close to pool chemicals.
Heres the situation...
I have tried removing the alumium crank set ffom the steel tappered ends of the bottom bracket. I tried P B blaster with the regular crank removal tool ...no go.

Never experience it before..but I believe this has all the makings of a "Galvanic corrsion weld"
I was gonna leave the set on but examining the chain rings..nope ..no go. "Shark toothed " or ground down teeth.

I dont know if this will work.

I know this " lets do some damage" tool will work

I guess I will have to ask the owner
how much he wants to invest
This isn't the only issue.

Any thoughts , ideas or suggestions
THANKS !

 

[SKPC]

Not sure those are a good idea...Assuming you tried a crank puller? Sometimes, while the tension is high on the puller with no result, bang on the crank with a block of wood and a hammer. It can break it loose. Some ring's on those three speed front ends had alternating, two at a time, "ground down" design for better shifting...teeth look good..

BIKEHAND Bicycle Bike Crankset Crank Arm Puller Remover Removal Tool 610696766717 | eBay

EASY TO USE: You'll need a spanner (NOT included) and a crank puller to remove the crank arm. Just screw on and use a spanner to remove the crank. COMPATIBILITY: A must-have tool to remove the crank arms off the bottom bracket.

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[Barnegatbicycles]

I would definitely try a normal crank arm puller first.

 

[WillWork4Parts]

Yeah, those alternating teeth look normal...the rust would be an issue for me, would probably cause excess wear to the chain and poor shifting, but maybe not. Is the corrosion on the aluminum limited to just through the anodizing/clear, or is it deeply pitted?? If deep pits, I might just cut the arms off. Might be able to get a puller to eventually get one loose, hope it isn't corroded enough to leave aluminum chunks on the spindle.

 

[J-wagon]

Teeth look ok to me. I'd just clean the spider eggs away, make sure chain is good lubed, and ride it, shift it, etc. Then decide.

 

[GTs58]

Teeth look good? ............................... WTH!

 

[SKPC]

You would think this is nuts, but they are supposed to look thataway on purpose....for shifting help. When I got a new middle ring years ago on a three ring setup, it had teeth that looked like that, I thought it was a mistake! The rust on this one is surface and will wipe away. Check out carefully the non-shortened teeth. I have worn out many rings but this one is low mile, no wear, just rusty and made of cheap metal.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

Teeth look good? ............................... WTH!

View attachment 2031289

Normal (not wear), it's designed to help hook the chain during a up shift under load and not slip.

John

 

[Sven]

I used both pullers with different results. The puller on the left - slightly damaged the starting thread(s) on the bottom bracket spindle. The puller on the right..

...got a great impression of the end of the spindle

..as well as pulled some of the threads on the crank.

I was able to screw the end cap back on.

You say the teeth are good ... the teeth are good . There is no play, no noise in the crank..so I am leaving it alone.
While we are on the subject of "It will not come apart". I was going to remove the cassette from the hub. Never having removed one, I watched Park Tool Calvin demonstrate the procedure...twice. My result

...a bent and busted chain whip and a lock ring still intact

Oh well. Looks like that will be another good enough, clean it up and put it back on the bike item.

Thanks you all for your thoughts and ideas.
I did learn a few things, "alternating teeth" gears, Galvantic corrosion- bad , storing a bicycle next to pool chemicals - bad and I picked a bad time to stop drinking..lol

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

I used both pullers with different results. The puller on the left - slightly damaged the starting thread(s) on the bottom bracket spindle. The puller on the right..
View attachment 2031408
...got a great impression of the end of the spindle
View attachment 2031409
..as well as pulled some of the threads on the crank.
View attachment 2031410
I was able to screw the end cap back on.
View attachment 2031419
You say the teeth are good ... the teeth are good . There is no play, no noise in the crank..so I am leaving it alone.
While we are on the subject of "It will not come apart". I was going to remove the cassette from the hub. Never having removed one, I watched Park Tool Calvin demonstrate the procedure...twice. My result
View attachment 2031421
...a bent and busted chain whip and a lock ring still intact
View attachment 2031422

View attachment 2031423
Oh well. Looks like that will be another good enough, clean it up and put it back on the bike item.

Thanks you all for your thoughts and ideas.
I did learn a few things, "alternating teeth" gears, Galvantic corrosion- bad , storing a bicycle next to pool chemicals - bad and I picked a bad time to stop drinking..lol

Sven,

It's like beating your wife, you want to apply force, but should never leave any evidence of your presence on the part!

Tools are just extensions of your hands; you never place your hand directly into the Bar-b-que without using the proper tool AND use the tool in the proper way. If you use the correct Bar-b-que tool but use it in the incorrect manner you will drop your Hamberger into the fire.

You can have an entire arsenal of tools, but it always comes down to your technique, and tool selection.

Have you ever considered removing the crank dust cap. Remove the spindle bolt. Remove the spindle flat washer. Place a smaller bolt (about a 1/4" bolt with a flat head) into the spindle threaded hole. This bolt will not be threaded into the spindle, it only gives you a flat solid steel item for your puller to push against. YOU DO NOT WANT THE PULLER PUSHING AGAINST THE CRANK ARM, ALL THE PULLER PRESSURE HAS TO GO AGAINST THE END OF THE SPINDLE. Your photo looks like the puller was pushing against the arm, as it's now mushroomed over. Go to your tools and select the puller that fits best, and threads "all the way" into the crank threads. Tighten the puller into the crank arm snuggly. Turn the tool center bolt in until you begin the feel some torque. DO NOT KEEP FORCING THE TOOL. Just turn it about a quarter turn past where you feel the resistance and STOP. Take your BFH (the Big Hammer for you Millennials) and give the puller bolt a solid crack directly on the end of the puller. 99 out of 100 arms will pop right off at this point. For the stubborn arms, just give them another quarter turn of pressure, and ONE MORE CRACK with MR. Hammer. If it still does not come off, just give it a little heat from a MAP gas torch. You do not need much heat the aluminum expands much faster than the steel spindle.

Removing crank arms both cottered, and cotterless, and screw-on freewheels is all about your technique, and the tool you select. The proper tool, used in a improper manner will do lots of damage.

Hope this makes you smile and rethink your approach.

John