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52 World Traveler… estate sale find

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The pits are often smaller than expected, once the rust is cleaned off. Much of the visible brown from rust is the upward and outward expansion of the corrosion. Once removed, the pit from which it was originating is often quite small. You'll want something to treat the fenders to keep them from rusting again. Some people use WD40, some use wax, but you'll want something to keep them clean. They look good.
 
rennfaran, I’ll let the next owner worry about that. I’m not going to keep this traveler. I don’t mind putting in the labor as I find this kind of stuff interesting and amusing at the same time. The plan was to get it looking and riding good again. Replace the consumables and once it’s done probably list it in my local market in time for Christmas. If it doesn’t sell then there’s always spring.
 
The SA 6 volt Dynohub just needed to be degreased.

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Do those Dynohubs create less resistance than the generators that rub on the hub?


I think the magnet and armature are together as one unit. the 4 bolts that are on the housing secure the magnet, when the housing spins, the magnet spins. So it’s kind of free floating inside and not attached so theirs not much friction.

I did ride this bike around the block before I began working on it. The wheels spin freely and didn’t make any weird sound. The front headlight has a switch that turns it on and off. Both headlight and taillight are connected together. As long as the front wheel spins, this gives power to the lights when the switch is on.

I found this photo on the web that shows the housing and dynamo armature.

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The Dynohub has a little friction, but substantially less than a vintage tire "bottle" generator. If your Dynohub is very draggy, it needs a cleaning.

Power output is generally a little lower than a decent bottle generator, though the Dynohub still does pretty well with an LED bulb conversion. With the vintage bulbs, it's pretty weak by today's standards. I use an LED conversion from NiceLite/ReflectaLite on mine. The big advantage over the tire/bottle generator is the lower friction of the Dynohub.

The armature and magnet can be removed as a unit. There are four unique screws that hold the unit in place (don't lose the tiny nuts or lock washers). Do not separate the armature from the magnet though (keep them together in that cup) because you risk ruining the magnet if you pull them apart without a keeper ring. Be careful with those plastic terminal caps: they're known for cracking around the terminal screws. They replaced them with a metal cover in the 1950s.
 
I don't think I could get along with that saddle angle.
On all my Brooks I have to have the nose up a bit so I don't feel like they're trying to dump me off the front. These are drop bar bikes though, so I'm leaned further over.
 
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