Pedal Cap Repair, or not...

[Rusty McNickel]

I have an 1898 Spalding to clean up. A previous owner ground a slot in a pedal cap in an effort to unscrew it off.

I'd like to improve the sppearance somehow but weighing the options. I do not intend a full restoration. The cap appears brass and fairly thin. The bike will be a rider.

1) Solder or braze and clean up.

2) Clean up and use colored epoxy to fill, then smooth out.

3) Embrace it and leave as is.

4) Any other suggestions?

 

[The Carolina Rambler]

If it is brass, I'd take it to a machine shop and have it brazed (or if you are able to braze at home), and then you could re-patina it artificially when finished. As for the nickel, I'm not sure how it would fare, but even then I think it would be an improvement. This would cost more than epoxy, but the quality of repair would be the best, and even then I wouldn't think it would cost more than $30-40 if that even.

 

[Rusty McNickel]

If it is brass, I'd take it to a machine shop and have it brazed (or if you are able to braze at home), and then you could re-patina it artificially when finished. As for the nickel, I'm not sure how it would fare, but even then I think it would be an improvement. This would cost more than epoxy, but the quality of repair would be the best, and even then I wouldn't think it would cost more than $30-40 if that even.

Thanks. My concern with any flame fix is the thinness of the cap and potential damage. This can't be replaced and if there were any risk of loss or damage I'd just as soon leave it be. I'm not a welder and would surely have a puddle of slag. I was thinking of maybe contacting a jewelry maker perhaps, someone experienced with fine work.

 

[GTs58]

If you can get it cleaned up real good, I'd try soldering it up.

 

[The Carolina Rambler]

Thanks. My concern with any flame fix is the thinness of the cap and potential damage. This can't be replaced and if there were any risk of loss or damage I'd just as soon leave it be. I'm not a welder and would surely have a puddle of slag. I was thinking of maybe contacting a jewelry maker perhaps, someone experienced with fine work.

Thats a good point, about the cap possibly melting or being otherwise damaged. A jeweler would be a possible place to ask for advice. If you did go the machine shop route, you would definitely want an experienced machinist, and should ask their advice regarding the possibility for damage. Soldering would be a viable option I would think, since the lead/tin has a much lower melting point than brass, and can be done at home. I've leaded up some things before and the end result looked quite nice, especially since it might could be blended in with any existing remaining nickel. That's just kind of my way of thinking- I tend to view the whole epoxy thing kind of poorly, like bondo-ing a car, if it can be fixed more properly with welding for example, that is what I always gravitate towards. I think soldering may be your ticket, especially since this is not a structural part.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

The first step in any metal repair is to determine the base metal you are working with. Each type of metal has a different melting point. The metal has to be clean, that is any impurities have to be removed before you can do any kind of metal repair. For example, if it is brass, or bronze your not going to be using a high temperature that you would use for welding (melting) steel. You will be using a lower heat temperature for brazing or soldering. One problem with brazing or soldering is that they do not "fill large voids", you would need to cut a small filler and then use the brazing or soldering to fill the small gap. Also, the solder will turn dull grey, and the brass/bronze base metal will look gold. The brazing rod will have a gold cast to the repair. The first step is to check it with a magnet. use a fine file to see what the filings look like and are they attracted to the magnet? It's not hard, but you need to develop a working plan before you just fire up the big torch. IMO, that is not a hard repair, and you should end up with a nicely restored part.

Good luck

John

 

[AndyA]

Brother Rusty:
If you're just trying to spiff it up without full restoration, go with option #2. Clean the outside with a wire brush and some alcohol or acetone. Stick a little piece of masking tape on the back. Fill (actually overfill a bit) the outside with epoxy glue. You don't need putty, A regular, viscous glue like Devcon will do. After cure, file and sand down to proper shape. Paint with Testors #1180 Flat Steel. It will look great. If you want to match the patina on the other piece, try splattering some flat gray. Have fun!

 

[Rusty McNickel]

Brother Rusty:
If you're just trying to spiff it up without full restoration, go with option #2. Clean the outside with a wire brush and some alcohol or acetone. Stick a little piece of masking tape on the back. Fill (actually overfill a bit) the outside with epoxy glue. You don't need putty, A regular, viscous glue like Devcon will do. After cure, file and sand down to proper shape. Paint with Testors #1180 Flat Steel. It will look great. If you want to match the patina on the other piece, try splattering some flat gray. Have fun!


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Thank you for the tip. If the results are unsatisfactory, the cured product can be burned off, cleaned up and then attempt plan A, metalwork repair (by an expert), right?

 

[AndyA]

If the results are unsatisfactory, the cured product can be burned off, cleaned up and then attempt plan A, metalwork repair (by an expert), right?

Why certainly!

 

[Rusty McNickel]

Why certainly!

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You mean "sointanly"!?!?